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Florida New Home Warranties and Inspections Guide

New construction homes in Florida come with a minimum one-year warranty against defects as a matter of state law, and most builders offer a broader package covering one, two, and ten years. The warranty only helps you if you inspect the home during construction and file claims in writing before deadlines pass. This guide explains the coverage, the inspections that matter, and how to protect your rights as a Central Florida buyer.

What the 1-2-10 Warranty Covers

Most Florida builders offer a limited warranty commonly called the "1-2-10," which covers three tiers of protection:

  • Year one, workmanship and materials: Covers defects in general construction, including drywall cracks, paint, trim, fixtures, and most workmanship issues that appear during the first year. This is the coverage you use most.
  • Year two, major systems: Covers the home's major mechanical systems, specifically plumbing, electrical, and HVAC. Wiring, piping, ductwork, water heater failures, and air conditioning failures caused by faulty installation are typically included.
  • Year ten, structural: Covers major structural defects in load-bearing components, including the foundation, load-bearing walls, and roof framing. This is the longest and most valuable coverage, and it is usually insured by a third-party warranty provider.

The warranty runs from closing. What is excluded matters just as much as what is covered: landscaping, driveways, normal settling, cosmetic issues, and damage from lack of maintenance are commonly excluded, so read the warranty documents before you sign and again before the one-year walkthrough.

What Florida Law Actually Requires

Florida law does not require the full 1-2-10 package. Under Florida Statute Section 553.837 (HB 623), effective July 1, 2025, builders of newly constructed single-family homes, duplexes, triplexes, and quadplexes must provide a minimum one-year warranty covering defects in materials, equipment, or workmanship. The two-year systems and ten-year structural coverage are voluntary: Florida law sets a floor, not a ceiling. Many builders meet or exceed it, and some do not offer a full 1-2-10.

Practical steps for buyers:

  • Ask the sales team for the warranty contract in writing before you sign the purchase contract, not at closing.
  • Confirm which years are covered, what is excluded, whether coverage is builder-backed or insurance-backed, and who administers claims.
  • Keep the warranty binder, the closing documents, and the dimensional/structural drawings in a safe place for the full ten years.

If the builder tells you a feature is covered, ask them to show you the warranty document that covers it. Verbal assurances are not coverage.

Who Stands Behind the Warranty

Many production builders back their warranties through third-party, insurance-backed providers rather than self-insuring. The two largest in Florida are 2-10 Home Buyers Warranty (2-10 HBW) and Residential Warranty Company (RWC). With these programs the builder enrolls the home, coverage runs from closing, and the administrator handles claims and dispute resolution if the builder does not respond.

Insurance-backed structural coverage is worth something. If a home is enrolled in a third-party program, the ten-year structural warranty survives even if the builder goes out of business. That is a meaningful difference from a self-insured builder with no third-party backing, and it is worth asking about at the sales center.

Which builders offer what varies by community and year. Our builders compared guide covers the major builders in Central Florida, and the individual Lennar, Pulte, D.R. Horton, and Meritage guides include their warranty claims processes.

The Inspections That Matter Most

Every new home is inspected by the county or city building department, but those inspections verify minimum code compliance, not quality or workmanship. County inspectors do not test every outlet, check every appliance, or catch sloppy work that still meets minimum code. That is why your own inspections exist. The four phases that matter most:

  • Pre-slab (pre-pour): Before concrete covers the foundation and under-slab plumbing. Optional but recommended for a foundation-level review.
  • Pre-drywall: The single most valuable inspection. Done after framing, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC are roughed in but before insulation and drywall close the walls, it is the only time you can see the structure, plumbing lines, wiring, and insulation.
  • Final pre-closing inspection: About one to two weeks before closing, testing every fixture, outlet, switch, fixture, appliance, and HVAC system, plus the items on the builder's punch list. Bring your inspector and check that every agreed repair was actually completed.
  • One-year walkthrough: Around month 10 to 11, a full review for defects that appeared during the first seasonal cycle, including settling cracks, leaks, and HVAC and plumbing issues.

County inspections and your own inspector serve different purposes. Budget for a licensed inspector experienced with new construction, and schedule the pre-drywall inspection far in advance with the builder's construction office. See our builder contracts guide for how inspection rights are written into the contract, including inspector waiver requirements some builders impose.

Florida Building Code Basics for New Homes

New permits in Florida have been issued under the 8th Edition (2023) Florida Building Code since December 31, 2023, which is based on the 2021 international codes and remains in effect until the 9th Edition takes over on December 31, 2026. The code sets the wind-load design standards that new Central Florida homes are built to, including roof decking attachment, roof-to-wall connections, and opening protection in designated wind-borne debris regions.

Impact-resistant glazing is not required everywhere. Window and door opening protection is required only in wind-borne debris regions defined by the code, including areas with design wind speeds of 140 mph or greater, and 130 mph or greater within one mile of the coast, plus the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone covering Miami-Dade, Broward, Monroe, and coastal Palm Beach. Most Greater Orlando permits confirm their exact wind-speed rating from the code's maps, so the requirements for your specific site, which the builder's plans and the county building department state for that property, are the ones that apply. Ask the builder for the wind-mitigation features on your home and how they meet the code for your lot.

Roof coverings in high-wind areas must meet wind-resistance standards such as ASTM D3161 Class F or ASTM D7158 Class H, with minimum nailing schedules and, in wind-borne debris regions, a sealed roof deck secondary water barrier. None of this tells you the home was built well, only that it meets code. The inspection finds the difference. Before you get to the building codes, the homesite you select and its premium shape your total budget: see our lot premiums guide for how builders price homesites across Greater Orlando.

Wind Mitigation and Your Insurance

A standardized wind-mitigation inspection using the Florida OIR-B1-1802 form documents the home's roof shape, roof-to-wall attachment, secondary water barrier, and opening protection. It is used primarily to qualify for wind-mitigation insurance credits, not as a closing requirement. New homes built to current code, particularly with hip roofs, properly attached roof decking, and impact-rated glazing or shutters where required, tend to score well, and the credits show up in your homeowners insurance quote.

Because property insurance is one of the biggest costs of homeownership in Florida, it is worth requesting a wind-mitigation form from your insurance agent after closing and comparing quotes from carriers who apply the credits. See the Florida homeowners insurance guide for how wind-mitigation, roof age, and coverage interact, and talk to your agent about the credits before you choose a policy.

How To File a Warranty Claim

Most routine warranty work starts with the builder's warranty department, usually through an online portal or forms your builder provides, and most builders resolve routine claims through that process. For disputes that rise above routine, Florida law gives you a structure:

  • Put everything in writing: Submit defects in writing with photos and dates, and keep copies. Get repair commitments from the builder in writing too.
  • Chapter 558, Florida Statutes, the Notice and Opportunity to Repair Act: To sue over an unsatisfied construction defect claim, a buyer must first serve a written Notice of Claim describing each defect in reasonable detail, at least 60 days before filing suit (120 days if the claim involves 20 or more residences. The builder then has the right to inspect and offer to repair or settle.
  • Know the deadlines: A construction defect claim must generally be filed within four years of when the defect is discovered or should have been discovered, and the state's statute of repose is 7 years for latent defects, running from the completion date or certificate of occupancy, under Florida Statute Section 95. The Chapter 558 notice can pause the four-year clock but does not extend the seven-year deadline.

This is not legal advice, and if you believe you have a serious structural or systems claim, consult a Florida construction or real estate attorney before any deadline passes, so you understand exactly what applies to your home.

The One-Year Walkthrough: What To Check

Schedule the warranty walkthrough at month 10 or 11, not the last day of the warranty, so there is time for the builder to respond and repair items before coverage ends. Bring a detailed punch list, take photos and video, and hire a licensed inspector if you want a professional eye. Areas that commonly need attention after the first seasonal cycle in Central Florida include:

  • Interior and exterior settling cracks in drywall, tile, and masonry, especially in the hot, humid months.
  • Door and window operation as the structure settles, seal failures, and hardware adjustments.
  • Plumbing leaks, doors and trim gaps, garage door adjustments, and landscaping drainage after summer storms.
  • HVAC performance in the summer cooling season and insulation or duct gaps that show up in the heat.

Submit the list in writing and request repair dates. If the builder misses its own deadline or disputes coverage, your written record and photos become the basis for a Chapter 558 notice if needed. Preserve the record for the structural warranty window, which lasts years past the one-year mark.

Your Side of the Warranty: Maintenance Responsibilities

Warranties exclude damage caused by lack of maintenance, and in Florida the big maintenance items are real:

  • Roof inspections after hurricanes: Document storm events and report roof, gutter, or window damage quickly to the builder and your insurer.
  • HVAC maintenance: Keep records of filter changes, coil cleaning, and the annual tune-up your warranty and insurance require.
  • Pool and pool equipment: Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule and keep the service records, since pools have their own equipment warranties.
  • Exterior paint, sealants, and pest control: Interval-based maintenance for exterior sealants, caulking, and termite prevention is the homeowner's job in most Florida warranty documents.

If you rent the home, understand that most warranties are written for owner-occupied use, and investor rules for rentals vary by builder. Check the warranty language about occupancy and maintenance before you ever plan for the property.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a 10-year structural warranty required in Florida?

No. State law requires a minimum one-year warranty against defects in materials, equipment, and workmanship (Florida Statute Section 553.837, effective July 1, 2025). The two-year systems and ten-year structural coverage are voluntary, builder-specific, so ask for the warranty documents in writing and confirm exactly what your contract includes.

Do I still need my own inspection if the county inspects the home?

Yes. County and city inspections verify minimum code compliance, not quality or workmanship. A licensed third-party inspector who specializes in new construction checks for issues the county does not, including pre-drywall framing, plumbing, electrical rough-in, and a detailed final walkthrough.

When should I do the one-year warranty walkthrough?

Around month 10 to 11 of the first year, so there is time for the builder to respond and repair items before the one-year coverage ends. Submit the list in writing with photos.

Does the new home warranty cover appliances?

Appliances usually carry their own manufacturer warranties that run separately from the builder's warranty. Check both documents, register the appliances, and keep the model and serial numbers and receipts for the manufacturer warranty periods.

How do I file a warranty claim?

Start with the builder's warranty department, in writing, with photos and dates, and get repair commitments in writing. If the claim escalates to a lawsuit, Florida Chapter 558 requires a written Notice of Claim at least 60 days before suit (120 days for 20 or more residences), and construction defect claims have filing deadline limits, so consult an attorney before deadlines pass.

Will a wind-mitigation inspection lower my insurance?

It can. A standardized wind-mitigation inspection (OIR-B1-1802) documents features such as roof shape, roof-to-wall attachment, secondary water barrier, and opening protection that many carriers reward with credits. New homes built to current code often score well, and the quotes you compare should reflect the credits.

Tyler Gibson, Central Florida Real Estate Advisor

Written by Tyler Gibson, Realtor, Investor, Team Leader, GPG | LPT Realty, FL License #3454664. Moved to Orlando in 2013. Se habla espanol.

More about Tyler Gibson.

Last updated: September 15, 2026. Published by Moving to Orlando Guide with Tyler Gibson.

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